Model Samus725M and its characteristics.

Manual - SAMUS725M-English "doc" Format - Download



Entering the password.


Each unit is protected with individual password which enables the unit to work after its insertion.




After connecting to the 12 VOLT only battery + and – you have the display ON and must press any key to insert the password. It is easy but may seem to be complicated at first.


Let's say we have 901005 password in our unit - this is only example.


1)First we set the appropriate number from 0 to 9 for the first position of 6-digit password

2)Pass with marker FORWARD to another position ( here leave it as it is 0 zero)

3)Chose by first button up and down the number 1 and pass further to the last position. The point after the digit shows us at which number we are situated. Set the 5 on the last position.

4)We have 901005 password set and now CONFIRM with the last button MOD.

5)The unit will show GOOD LUCK !!! and the basic window will show up. See further below.

The device samus725M has a few differences from samus725G – a few improvements !!!




F-Frequency of impulses

L- Durations of impulses ( length of impulse )

V-Loudness 0-5 range

+- battery level ( plus means battery is OK above 10,3 Volt) -(minus) -means battery is getting weaker

P- power level OUT produced by the device

R- reduction modes ( R-- means reduction OFF and it works like SAMUS725G)

t- time for reduction ( 3,6,9 or 12 seconds) . You set the time and in first second of the time you get highest power level and then in the course of time it is being reduced and in the last second it is reduced by maximum,set by YOU, percentage ( 30%,60% or 90%) any by chosen by YOU parameter – F or L or F and L together.

H- counter of Ampere -hours used during the fishing

A- total Ampere-hours used during all fishings

T- total time the device have been in work

S1- page number of FAVOURITE SETTINGS ( S1 S2 S3 S4 – four pages) where you can pass quickly from one to another FAVOURITE SETTINGS by pressing for 1 second last button MOD



Power reduction mode- THE MOST ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY IN ELECTROFISHING !!!!








Under influence of electric field produced by electrofisher the fish may come into a few states from fright to electrotaxis ( galvanotaxis) to narcosis and tetany depending on the distance from the net. This is caused by the fact that electric field spreads out in the water not equally. The highest density of electric field is around the net and quickly diminishes with the distance. The so-called zones make the fish pass through a few states while approaching the net. The best is too keep the fish in minimum shock in order to keep it very lively and enable smooth swimming towards the net. In order to keep the best state of the fish under electric field influence and enable the best swimming and shocking of the fish POWER REDUCTION mode gives excellent results in most conditions. It produces less shock to fish and makes the fish goes smoother to the net, do not sink at the net in the last phase . It also has a benefit that the battery lasts longer and you may use smaller and less heavy battery. 2,5 kg -7 Ah may be enough for 1-2 hours of electrofishing. 45 Ah car battery is enough for 20 hours of electrofishing.






This model samus725M has power reduction mode depending on time which you can set according to your needs and fishing habits. T= 3,6 9 or 12 seconds ( time when the reduction is effected)


The idea of it is based on it that the fish,when comes to the net ( ring), receives in standard modes ex. F-75 and L-0,30 and P=150 more power when it comes to the metal ring ( net). When the fish moves towards the anode it is approaching the zone with more and more power. The closer to the metal the stronger electric field in water is. But in theory the power should be reduced as the fish is already shocked. The fish should move to the net more smoothly and receive less power during the course of time. It is often difficult for beginners to set appropriate power levels on OPTIMUM MINIMUM which means you get effect of galvanotaxis ( drawing the fish towards the net) and effective electrofishing. Often the power is too high or too small. Now computer programming allows this. In the last second by reduction of 90% you will get reduced power and still shock but as minimum as possible only not to allow the fish to escape. However, you must pick the fish quickly to the net, though.


So the fish comes to anode ( net) and receives less power not to be hurt and only units with microcomputer may do it and only we and USA smith-root models of devices have it available.


You also set time 3, 6, 9,12 seconds you want reduction to last. So in the first second you have higher power and later lowered by microcomputer until end value and it lasts until you release the button START - micro switcher.


It is counted so that at first you have , let's say 190 watts of power at F=75 L-0,35 or so and P=190 watts so while setting 6 seconds (t) in the last second (6th) and later we will have approximately 100 watts in case of 90% reduction (S90 option) . S90 means 45% reduction of frequency and 45% of duration. If L is enough higher than 0,05. Other options are 15 % and 15% in case of S30 and in case of S60 we reduce power by 30% both F and L. F30, F60 and F90 means you reduce only 1 parameter and L30 L60 and L 90 means you reduce only L if it is enough over 0.05 value .


We have 9 ( nine) options now but it can be added later of course but it makes the unit complicated to set and choose from settings. There are hundreds options possible to be programmed.


S1, S2, S3, S4– how to remember the settings for the next fishing trips ?


Just press last button MOD for 1 second and you will pass to another S2 and again press for 1 second and then pass to S3 and again to S4 and back to S1. Now when you disconnect from the battery and enter the password again you will have the last settings stored in microcomputer memory. Newest models have also AUTOMATIC STORAGE in the memory each 1 minute so you don't have to do anything and it will be kept in the memory of microcomputer.



There is also another window you may notice ( pressing MARKER forward and back) but it gives only service and counters settings. Power Time and general field work.






Forbidden actions !


Do not put the device (the radiator) on the battery terminals. It will break immediately. Keep the device in a plastic dry bag. Keep the battery separately and only cables should connect the battery with the device.

Do not fish in the rainy weather. Immediately stop working if the water got inside. Under no condition continue the fishing in such case. Open the device in home and keep it in warm place to dry out.

Do not try to connect the anode and cathode and press button START and test the device if the sparks appear.

Do not touch metallic parts ( Kescher) with bare hands under pressed button START. You must realize that in Condenser there may be high voltage even after you stopped pressing the button START. Under the button START there is only 5 Volt necessary to micro switcher to start the device.


The device is absolutely safe if you follow these guidelines. It is a matter of safety issues as it is electric device and above SAFETY GUIDLINESS MUST be followed all the time while fishing.




HOW TO ELECTROFISH ? HOW TO SET THE PARAMETERS ! WHAT YOU MUST KNOW AT FIRST !!!


In order to fish successfully you must realize a few basic things about electrofishing.




  1. Each water is different and in many cases the same species of fish react to the electric field differently in various waters ( lake, pond , big river). This is caused by the fact that ions found in the water are not in the same quantity everywhere and water may have different conductivity even in the nearest region of your home. Many factors play role in electrofishing : temperature, water type, species, anode size and others. The device works only in FRESHWATER in the range of 25-1000 Ohm resistivity. It will NOT work in the SEA WATER or high conductive water- very dirty industrial waters or polluted by chemicals. This makes you must find your best settings at your water .

  2. Some fish react better than others due to their different body (scaled fish) .Some fish are very sensitive ( especially big and feel it from big distance) to the electric shock and need less power than others and if you fish in the water with different species you must realize this. Some fish may sink while other go up excellent to the net.

  3. The most sensitive fish for shock are:

    white fish,roach,minnows, perch family, walley, catfish,bass,

    Less sensitive but also react very well are: salmons, trouts, grayling,pikes,crappie

    Harder to shock but also possible with more power: carps, tenches, eels, some scale fish

  4. Big fish react better than small due to their larger body ( head to tail reaction) Big fish meet more field lines than small ones. So don't be amazed while small fish around anode do not react much.

  5. In hot seasons when temperature rises you need to put more power and increase Frequency by 10-20 Hz than in colder water and fishing in hot summer may not be effected as desired. Warm water makes fish go very deep to colder waters and it makes not possible to reach them with electric field.

  6. Active fish in summer as pike, carp eel may escape if the settings are too low due to warmer water and that they are very active

  7. The distance between anode and cathode may be regulated according to your needs. It varies from 1,5 meter ( 5 feet) to 15 meters (45 feet) in case of catfish fishing in big river in summer. You must find optimum between comfortable fishing and desired results.

  8. Anode ( net) should be at least 30 cm ( 12 inches) diameter and optimal is between 40-60 cm ( 18-25 inches). It should be metallic ring or triangle. The bigger the surface the better. It may be copper , aluminum, stainless steel ( however, some use common steel). The anode in the process of fishing cover with the coating which should be removed from time to time to enable the current best conditions to spread in the water. Cathode in many cases may be increased which may get better results in harder-to-fish water. You can prolong it or attach extra old cable wires or stripes of aluminum or copper.

  9. The best method to start is follow my guidelines. Quick set up and start fishing:

    1)Enter password and increase the power by the means of L ( you increase the length of impulse so it lasts longer) at Frequency F=50. In order to achieve the POWER of 150 watts approximately ( P=150). YOU WILL OBSERVE IT ON THE DISPLAY WHEN YOU PRESS THE BUTTON START AND HAVE THE ANODES DIPPED IN THE WATER. OBSERVE THE DISPLAY AND P-PARAMETR !!!

    2) Start fishing and move on the water and press in PERIODS for 2-6 seconds and observe the fish. Move and press every 2-5 meters intervals on the water and DO NOT PRESS ALL THE TIME. Observe the fish reaction around the NET. ONLY THE NET INTERESTS you and THE FISH which should come to the net or be shocked around it.

    3) If the fish escapes increase the frequency F or duration L GRADUALLY and SLOWLY. If the fish sinks reduce POWER by reducing F or L but at first try to reduce L.

    4) If the fish still sinks use POWER REDUCTION MODES. If the fish escapes rise power by increasing L and F. In case of REDUCTION MODES you may set the power at HIGHER LEVEL than at normal mode (R--) as the power will be reduced quicker or slower in the course of time. Depending on the time chosen by you in the process of setting the REDUCTION TIME and ONE of NINE REDUCTION MODES you will find the bets results for your water and your desired fish.

    Once you find your best settings you will have it stored in memory and may use next time IMMEDIATELY. But remember that in the long course of time the weather changes or water properties may change ( summer, temperature) and you may be forced to ADJUST those you had in the past a bit.





If you still have questions feel free to ask. info@electro-fisher.com